There’s no hiding the truth from passengers on an Indian train, and this one carves through Mumbai, laying bare its guts and glories. Buffalo with centre partings lounge in the shade of rain trees, and patches of pink lotus appear in the mud. He’s been taking the train for more than 10 years to Pernem in North Goa, where his wife has a home. “It leaves at 5.45am, reaches Goa about 3pm, and it comes back to Bombay in the night. He points out of the window to where the scenery has transformed into forested mountains, lime-green meadows and rivers swinging wide.
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